Part of a series:

• Ep1: Do this with your arms

• Ep2: Do this with your legs

• Ep3: Do this with your arms and legs

• Ep4: Generating pumping speed

In a series of bumps, your arms keep you balanced and safe. Your legs make you smooth and fast. Here’s how.

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Here’s an excerpt from my 2017 book Mastering Mountain Bike Skills v3. That title has sold more than 300,000 copies in more than 10 languages. Pretty neat!

When you become a mountain biker, you begin a never-ending journey of self-improvement and good times. You have the most fun when your skills match the current challenge. When you step up your skills, you step up the challenge, and vice versa. Beginners and experts enjoy the same stoke. When you flow down your first green trail you’ll be just as stoked as I was when I jumped the Whale Tale.

As your skills evolve, so does your relationship with terrain. You get more confident and you learn to work a trail the way a surfer works a wave. Although your kung fu changes with the situation (you might be a confident trail rider but a sissy jumper), you probably spend most of your time at one of the following three levels.

Level 1: The Trail Works You

Your bike feels new and strange, and you have little faith in your ability to survive a trail. You keep all of your muscles tense, all of the time. You drag your brakes whenever your bike points downhill. You creep slowly over obstacles and frequently stop dead or flop over your handlebars. You don’t lean enough in turns, and your constant braking keeps your bike from cornering smoothly.

Riding at level 1 is herky-jerky and, to be honest, not all that fun. You hear experienced riders talk about flow and groove and flying over stuff, but you have no idea what they’re talking about. Heck, you might even think they’re crazy.

Unfortunately, most people who own mountain bikes never get out of this stage. They either wallow in beginnerdom forever, or they just plain give up and stick to the road. If you’re at level 1, don’t give up. This isn’t what mountain biking is about. The real fun is still to come.

Leap From Level 1 to Level 2

1. Relax. This is so important, we’ll keep beating you over the head with it. If you find yourself tensing up, stop what you’re doing and return with a fresh mind — while focusing on what, specifically, you want to do well. If the tension remains, go work on something that doesn’t scare you. Fear and tension make riding unproductive and unfun.

2. If you’re going to brake, brake like you mean it. Slow way down then get back to rolling. Dragging brakes is unfun and dangerous.

3. Try carrying [a little] more speed into rough sections. Get light on your bike to get through more smoothly.

4. Have faith in your bike’s ability to roll. That’s what bikes do. They roll.

5. Dial in your attack position. This is key!

Level 2: You Survive the Trail

Now mountain biking becomes fun. You’ve learned to relax a bit. You coast between turns. You roll, clatter, and fly straight over obstacles. In corners you lay off the brakes, lean, and carve like a butcher.

You’ve become a competent rider. On a smooth, curvy trail you enjoy the sensations of speed and flow. When things get gnarly, you tend to tense up. You bog down in rough terrain, and you get bucked out of control when you hit obstacles at speed. You have trouble making corners when traction is iffy.

The majority of satisfied mountain bikers ride happily somewhere in level 2, blissfully unaware of the next level. When they see pros whiz by with utmost speed and control, they just shake their heads and assume their bikes are way better.

Leap From Level 2 to Level 3

1. Relax. Yes, even more than ever. The best way to relax isn’t to try to do nothing; it’s to focus on doing whatever you need to do in the moment. Get heavy. Get light. Lean your bike. Look farther ahead. Do something!

2. Commit. The ups and downs of porpoiseful riding require snap.

3. Scrutinize the trail. Not just any line will do. Look for banks to turn on and downslopes to pump.

4. Don’t bash into stuff. It’s no longer good enough to point your wheel downhill and let it run into whatever’s in the way. Instead, try to unweight, wheelie, hop, or jump over the obstacles. When you stop crashing into things, you’ll immediately increase your speed and control.

5. Pump backsides. Anytime the trail turns downward, press down for some free speed. We’re talking any surface here: rocks, stumps, mounds, washing machines, anything. Pumping is the key to that flowy world you’ve been hearing about.

6. Develop your own style. Experiment to learn what works best for your skills, body type, and equipment. For example, if you can’t muscle your bike through rough sections but you rail corners, you might tend to ride around gnarly rocks, which is fine. What isn’t fine is thinking you rule at rocks but actually sucking, then bashing into the business end of a boulder. Know yourself.

7. Dial in your attack position. Yes, even more. More automatic. More fluid.

You’re Only as Good as Your Habits

When you’re under stress—in a race, on a new trail, with a potential mate—you’ll always revert to your old habits. Do you usually ride stiff and upright with negative self talk? If so, you’ll do the same under pressure. So take the time to build good habits!

Level 3: You Work the Trail

This is the ultimate. You ride with relaxed aggression. You never let your front wheel hit a rock, and you never let a backside go by unpumped. The trail is a piece of clay, and you sculpt it to suit your fancy. Your line is as vertical as it is horizontal. You unweight or fly over obstacles, and you press hard into corners. You porpoise through rough sections, gaining speed and control the whole time.

When you reach level 3, be proud—you’re in small company. But just because you can hop a boulder’s face and pump its backside doesn’t mean you’re finished learning. As you get stronger and better at reading terrain, you’ll learn to manipulate trails in even better ways.

Almost 10 years after MMBS3 was published, I’ve found the next level.

Level Infinity

At this level you’re riding in a beautiful paradox. Your skills are so dialed you can forget them, yet you’re aware of every detail and still improving the fundamentals. You can rip in deep focus, and you can flow in expansive joy.

I’m glad I’ve stuck with mountain biking all these 38 years. While I’m not riding as big, fast and far as I used to, my riding is smoother, more elegant and more satisfying than ever. I feel like I’m receiving a tasty reward for all that dedication.

Have fun out there,

Lee

I’m opening a shop!

Yes! I’ve leased a small space in north Boulder. I’ll be building bikes, doing in-person and remote fits, and repairing clients’ bikes. My favorite name so far is

The Dialed Sanctuary. The physical home for my mission: Helping people experience joy through mountain biking.

What do you think? I hope to open in August. Stay tuned!

Lee

When you follow the main line into a switchback, you’re following the median line of median riders. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself struggling to make the turn. A more thoughtful line can make the turn much easier.

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Location: Hopewell Memorial Park in Danville, PA.

Feature: Off camber switchback. Simple but tricky.

Here’s how it’s done:

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Hi All,

I recently returned from Danville, PA, where I delivered three custom bikes and three days of MTB kung fu to G and his sons.

The first in a series:

• Ep1: Do this with your arms

• Ep2: Do this with your legs

• Ep3: Do this with your arms and legs

• Ep4: Generating pumping speed

The vast majority of ‘experts’ tell you to push down the backsides of bumps with your arms. Because that approach is fundamentally flawed, it has a low ceiling in terms of speed, flow and safety. It also leads to disappointing hops and jumps.

Here’s what to do with your arms in a series of bumps.

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Hi all!

This year’s Sea Otter dual slalom was less a test of BMX power and more a showcase for raw cornering skills. Nikolas Nestoroff qualified first then won the final with a riding style so violent it was smooth.

Watch a master and add a little power to your cornering.

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I’m exited to share the joy of great riding with you this summer.

In addition to teaching private classes, I’ll be teaching three “levels” of public MTB classes at Valmont Bike Park. Classes start June 23 and run into October.

Who are the teachers?

• Me, Lee McCormack. Learn about me.

• Molly Throdahl. Molly is an ex professional XC MTB racer who found the Tao of Shred through me. Molly is an extraordinary rider and co-coach.

Classes are limited to eight riders so we have great coach/rider ratios.

Level 1 on-the-ground skills for MTB and gravel

Coed and women only : 2 hours : $100

Ride your mountain bike or gravel bike with confidence and safety.

• Basics of bike fit

• Riding positions

• Braking in control

• Cornering with confidence

• Riding over bumps

This 2-hour class gives new riders a great start, and it gives experienced riders a new start.

I customize my approach to each rider. No steps are skipped. No risks are taken.

Sign up for Level 1 »

Level 2 mountain bike air skills

Coed and women only : 4 hours : $200

When you pump terrain terrain smoothly and fly confidently, mountain biking goes from fun to FUN!

This Level 2 class quickly covers the essentials from Level 1 (position, braking, and basic cornering so you’re safe) then adds air skills:

• Pumping rollers and berms on the pump track

• Drops

• Jumps

In 4 hours you’ll forge an elegant, reliable skillset to help you flow safely on the ground and in the air.

I customize my approach to each rider. If you’re not ready to get your bike into the air, we’ll work with you on the ground. No steps are skipped. No risks are taken.

Sign up for Level 2 »

MTB Master Class

Coed : 6 hours : $300

Become the mountain biker you dream of being. Ride trails with confidence. Enjoy sweet airtime. Achieve deep flow.

When you look back on your riding career, there will be the time before this class, and the time after this class. In just 6 hours:

We refine your Level 1 ground skills

• Riding positions

• Braking

• Cornering

• Riding over bumps

Then we dial in your Level 2 air skills.

• Pumping rollers and berms on the pump track

• Drops, from small and rollable to big and sendy

• Jumps!

Once you have that skillset, we

• Make technical climbing way easier

• Pump flat corners for traction and speed

• Link corners, bumps, drops and jumps

• Achieve deep flow

At the end of this class you’ll be tired and stoked. More importantly, your riding skills will be much better — and you’ll know how to improve them over time.

I customize my approach to each rider. If you’re not ready to get your bike into the air, we’ll work with you on the ground. No steps are skipped. No risks are taken.

Sign up for MTB Master Class »

I look forward to riding with you. Please ask questions in the comments or email me at leelikesbikes@gmail.com.

Lee

In Pumping the perpetual peanut Rod asked:

Thanks Lee for putting the pix together with arrows. It helps.

The few times I have been on a pump track, I found myself tiring out fairly quickly.

I feel like I am fighting the bike, but is that part of the experience? Or am I, as a person with little experience on a pump track fighting my bike and with time, and practice I would be more in synch with my bike?

Rod!

Thanks for writing. That’s a great question. Here’s why pump tracking is so hard, and how you can make it easy.

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Dogtank asked,

What are you doing to sort out your soft muscles / tight & weak lower back?

Great question. As a 56-year-old rider who has lost and regained function 3 times in the past few years, I offer this advice:

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I’m all about high challenge, high reward, low risk MTB practice. The other day, Molly and pumped the perpetual peanut.

Truths were revealed:

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We’ll start with a set of quick-start workouts.

POSTED JAN. 5, 2018

Hi there!

Thank you for buying your RipRow™ and for visiting this site. I’m so excited I can’t even express it.

You might be like,

“Stoked! I have a RipRow! Now what do I do with it?”

This page will get you started with some workout ideas.

Have fun out there, and please tell me how it’s going in the comments field below.

Lee

(It’s crazy to watch these now. At this point I had no shoulder joints left. I was living in so much pain, I don’t have words but I can see it in my mannerisms and hear it in my voice. This machine, the RipRow, build so much skill and strength that it bought me another 10 years until I had to replace my shoulders. It’s truly an excellent training tool.)

Pick a stance

This video shows the three main stances you’ll be using. If you use bike stance, be sure to switch feet between sets (or halfway through sets).

Pick a level

You can count reps and sets on a Riprow™ just like when you’re lifting weights, but I think it works better to go by time. Treat each block of work (each “set”) as an interval.

Here are some interval durations for RipRowers of various levels:

• Beginner: 1 minute

• Intermediate: 3 minutes

• Advanced: 5 minutes

Do an interval, rest a moment then do another. If you feel great, rest less.

You might be a pro athlete, but you’re a beginner RipRower! RipRow is taxing in a very unique way. Start slow. Focus on form. Build intensity, resistance and duration gradually. You might feel great right now, but you might not feel that way in the morning.

Start with 1-minute intervals. If you can handle more work, don’t rest between sets.

Warm up

Set the machine to light resistance (1-4) and alternate ShredLifts and Low Rows for 5-10 mins until you feel warm. See below for movement videos.

Pick a workout

Start at the top of the list, with Workout A. The workouts start short and simple. As you work down the list, the workouts get longer and more complex.

When a workout gets easy, you can A) work faster, B) add resistance to the dampers or C) start doing a more challenging workout.

Do a RipRow™ workout every day. With the RipRow™ we’re not just building physical fitness. We’re also building the neuromuscular patterns — muscle memory — that help you ride safer, better and faster. These patterns can win races and quite literally save your life.

So use your RipRow™ every day. If you’re tired and pressed for time, do 5 minutes easy. Heck, do one minute easy. But do something every day or — even better — more than once per day. The more often you do the moves, the better your body adapts to them.

This is called greasing the groove. You have to watch this video:

Once you’re in the RipRow™ groove, you might do a hard workout a few days per week and an easier workout on the other days, or as a warmup for riding.

(Movement videos are below, thanks to the Wayback Machine.)

Workout A: 5 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute

Workout B: 7 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute

Workout C: 10 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute

Workout D: 10 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
StraightRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute

Workout E: 10 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
Cornering to the right 1 minute
Cornering to the left 1 minute
Cornering to the right 1 minute
Cornering to the left 1 minute

Workout F: 10 minutes
ShredLift 1 minute
LowRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
RoundRow 1 minute
Cornering to the right 1 minute
Cornering to the left 1 minute
Cornering to the right 1 minute
Cornering to the left 1 minute
Slalom 1 minute
Slalom 1 minute

When you add cornering and slalom (workouts E and F), you’re getting a very complete workout, especially for your core.

Here are the moves

How’s it going? Ask questions and give me feedback in the comments form below.

I still RipRow on a regular basis. There’s no more efficient way to train off the bike for shred.

Have fun out there,

Lee

Dial in your bike with Dialed v2 and the DiRT tool

The ebook, print book and Kindle of Dialed v2 include access to the DiRT MTB modeling tool and Dialed v2 online. Run the numbers before you run your credit card.

It’s easy to watch great riders like him do big stuff, say “wow cool,” maybe hit a Like and keep scrolling. But let me tell you: Top racers like Bubba do many small things very well. That’s what makes them so good. Keep reading for some moves you can use.

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As I recall, the big time “road bike handlers” were pissed that some mountain bikers came out and beat them on their own surface. World DH champ Myles Rockwell won it on a stock Giant road bike. World DS/4X/DH champ Brian Lopes took 3rd on a mountain bike with slicks.

The Red Bull Road Rage, held in Malibu, CA on Nov. 5, 2005 showed us all how road bikes are meant to be ridden. Featuring Myles Rockwell, David McCook, Brian Lopes and Mark Weir.

The Nov. 5 2005 Red Bull Road Rage ran racers down Malibu’s Tuna Canyon Road: a 2.5-mile, 2,000 foot paved plummet featuring 50 turns and top speeds in the high fifties. The course had its share of sprinting, tucking and white-knuckling, but the deciding factor was neither brute force nor low fear IQ. It was the ability to carry speed through the steep, tight corners.

Full-time carpenter and 2000 downhill world champion Myles Rockwell won the time trial in 4:24.7, with pro criterium racer David McCook finishing one second back. World four-cross champ Brian Lopes overcame a near death experience to finish third, four seconds behind Rockwell.

Here’s what some of the fast guys had to say about going fast down a road like this.

Know the course
Lopes said the course started and ended pretty flat (a relative term, considering the overall grade is 15 percent). “You were basically sprinting as hard as you could for 30-40 seconds. There were turns, but you didn’t have to brake for them. There was no skill — just power. The end of the course was the same way. But in the middle it got steeper, and the turns got tighter.

“You had to link from turn to turn to turn. You had to know the turns, know when to brake, how much to brake. A lot of the turns are blind, and they all look the same. If you go too hot into the first corner you drift out and you’re late for the next corner, then you’re even later for the next one.”

“Sometimes you have to look through the mountain,” said McCook, who says he has won many races because of his cornering skill. “Know there the road goes and where you want to be, and look there — even if there’s a mountain in your way and a cliff on the other side.”

Speaking of cliffs, said Lopes, “I was going into this turn really fast, and the back wheel locked up and I started fishtailing. I threw some weight over the back to make it hook up, but before I knew it I was on the pavement sliding. I hit the curb and caught on my stomach. I looked around and I was hanging from a 100-foot cliff. Oh my God, I could have just died.” This realization didn’t scare Lopes, but it did convince him to run full suspension for extra traction in the corners.

While you’re memorizing the curves, says McCook, pay attention to the surface. “The traction is different on new or old asphalt, or new or old cement. You can’t make every turn the same — one’s gonna be slipperier than the other. Pay attention, and don’t take anything for granted.”

Choose smart lines
Make every turn as wide as possible. That means entering on the far outside of the road, crossing to the inside then sweeping all the way outside. White to yellow to white. “In a criterium where I’ll be riding 50 or 60 laps I’m learning the turns more each time,” says McCook. “As I go faster and faster, I use more of the road. I’ve even bumped off the curb.”

Many riders make the mistake of diving directly into the inside of the corner. This “early apex” line forces you to do most of your turning late in the corner, which slows you down and leaves you little room to correct mistakes. Remember those cliffs?

You’ll exit faster and more likely stay on the road by carving a “late apex” line. Come in very wide, brake hard, get most of the turn done, then sweep inside to finish the turn. This gives you much greater exit speed, and it lets you do your hardest turning on ground you’ve seen — important on an unfamiliar road. It also gives you leeway; if you lose traction or the turn keeps turning you have room to deal with it.

Says McCook, “It’s like they do in GP motorcycles — go in hard, hit the brakes and halfway through hit the gas. Only halfway through I pedal.”

Control your bike

Here are the basics of cornering form:

– Look where you want to go.
– Outside pedal down and weighted.
– Get as low as you can.
– Lean your bike.

Bike lean is the key to cornering. The tighter the turn and the higher your speed, the farther you must lean.

Many riders lean their bodies into the turn but try to keep their bikes upright. Major magazines have claimed this is the key to safe cornering, but it’s actually the key to awkward cornering. Instead, lean your body into the turn — and lean your bike even more. This sets a harder edge and increases your bike control.

“If you try to keep your bike up, when your bike slips there’s no way to catch the bike, no way to lift it up,” said McCook. “When you have the bike under you or to the inside, if it starts sliding you can lift it and catch the slide.”

When you lay your bike into a left turn, tilt your hips to the right and weight the right pedal with a bent knee. Think about resting your left butt cheek or thigh on the saddle. This will create perfect body/bike angulation.

Pro cross country and Super D racer Mark Weir took fifth in the Road Rage time trial and was duly impressed. “Lopes is the gnarliest dude ever,” he said. “Seeing him hit the corners opened my eyes. He was so leaned over, it was like, ‘Is that possible?’ This was the best education on how to ride. Now that I’m home and riding on dirt, I just keep leaning, and my bike sticks.”

Go for it
When you’ve learned the road, chosen good lines and mastered your bike control, you’ll be much more comfortable as well as faster on your next descent. But to go really fast requires something special.

“I did a run with Myles, and he is not normal,” said Weir. “He’s so gifted, so natural. He just tucked and pedaled. Most people would falter then take time to get back, but he linked every corner. The way he followed lines, the way he used every inch of the road, was amazing. He was at home.”

Said McCook, “I try to pedal through everything, and I only use the brakes when I have to. I like the movie “Million Dollar Baby” — sometimes the winner does what the loser is afraid to do.”

Most of that still holds true. It blows my mind that all pro road cyclists aren’t great at cornering, but I suppose only 1% of people are in the top 1%. Right?

Lee

You can learn the skills the pros use

Everything they do comes down to fundamental positions and movement patterns that I can teach you. Whether you race or not, these skills make you a safer, better and more stoked rider.

Book a Zoom with me and let’s talk about your riding needs. Or DM me or email me at leelikesbikes@gmail.com.

Check out my skills library at www.llbmtb.com and my college textbook ridelogic.teachable.com.

Can you put a post or two out on how to shred without a dropper? Would be good for those of us with vintage bikes, gravel bikes or flat batteries. I grew up riding without dropper posts and the general advice at the time was 'get out of the way of the saddle', which lead to us all hanging off the back of the bike and did very weird things to the weight distribution. Is there a better way?

What a great question. Yes, a bike with a fixed high seatpost can be shredded, and there is a better way than hanging off the back of the bike. Here’s how to shred with a high seat.

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I heard a whole lot of complaining from racers, but the track made for great racing — and it really showed who can corner.

As we learned in Pumping corners Ep1, loading a corner creates traction. Pumping a corner creates traction and propulsion. At this level, every turn gets pumped. Watch and learn:

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As the pros burned in the raw, old school Sea Otter dual slalom track, I leaned on my walking sticks and about had a spiritual experience. Here are the skills I practice and teach — executed by some of the world’s best riders. It was awesome!!

The most successful racers tend to be the deepest hingers.

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Today starts our series on the science and art of pumping corners. Every great rider is great at pumping corners. You can learn this skill.

We start with

1. What is pumping a corner?

2. Why should we pump corners?

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In Vision on jumps, our friend Chris asked

Lee, can you elaborate on what we need to focus on when jumping?

Yes sir!

While jumping is technically one of the simplest MTB skills, much of the common jumping advice is overcomplicated, unhelpful or dangerous. This makes riders struggle. See Do not extend your arm and legs when you jump.

I’ve taught thousands of people to jump either in 6- hour group class, a 2-hour private session, or on Zoom (yeah you can learn to jump on Zoom). Not one person has ever gotten hurt following my instructions. Here’s some proven advice.

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Along with his question about riding steep downhills with some weight on his hands, Scott asked:

What about cornering? Do you agree with Ben Cathro that we should have a small amount of pressure on the bars when cornering?

Scott

Hey Scott!

Thanks for another great question. When you say “we” I assume you mean we the passionate but sub-elite bedrock of the mountain biking world.

Ben Cathro is an elite level rider and a popular figure on Pinkbike. Ben is fun to watch ride, and he’s great on camera. I agree we should load the front tire, but that’s easy to do wrong. Here’s how to do it right.

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In Don’t load the trebuchet with your body Scott commented:

Thanks as always for your insights Lee. You are the guy that originally taught me, so many years ago, to push my bars when dropping. Before that I would literally SEND everything, but I had problems when I couldn't carry much speed into the drop. That one lesson unlocked a new level for me.

My problem these days is when it's REALLY steep, I have a hard hinging back far enough on the bike for all of my weight to be on the pedals. Some percentage is on the bars. Maybe 10%? I'm not sure.

Is this acceptable in near vertical descents?

Scott

Scott!

Thanks for the kind words and great question. You touch on some common issues with today’s longer bikes, steeper trails and tighter riders. Keep reading to ride safe even though you’re breaking the cardinal rule of heavy feet, light hands.

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